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Armenia reveals ancient treasures


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Armenia reveals ancient treasures, new life

Mountains, monasteries and modern capital

Jane Wampler, Special to The Chronicle

Yerevan, -- Armenia

Sunday, October 17, 2004

On a clear autumn day, the smell of fresh cement and the sound of chisels and hammers permeates the capital city of Armenia. Sidewalk cafes overflow with suited businessmen and couples talk over demitasse cups of strong, boiled coffee. Fashionable women in rimless sunglasses and stiletto heels walk arm in arm, sidestepping wheelbarrows and loose paving stones, and several new luxury hotels are nearly booked to capacity.

It's clear that Armenia is making a comeback. Again.

After surviving genocide, 70 years of Soviet domination, a devastating earthquake in 1988 and millennia of foreign marauders who whittled this once-massive kingdom to one-tenth of its size, this Eurasian country of 3 million inhabitants is reassuming its role of phoenix.

Because it was cloaked behind the Iron Curtain for most of the 20th century, few Westerners, until recently, have glimpsed of this culturally rich, mountain republic tucked between the Caspian and the Black seas. What only the privileged have known, until this past decade, is that this is an astonishingly beautiful country of high mountain lakes, snow-capped peaks, ancient monasteries, cascading rivers and archeological ruins so impressive they ought to be behind the velvet ropes of a museum.

Perhaps more significantly, for a region of the world more associated with terror than tourism, many Westerners are surprised to hear that this predominantly Christian nation -- bordered by Iran, Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan -- is politically stable and welcoming to tourists.

Try to buy a single peach from a roadside fruit stand and the old woman will wave your money away. Ask a farmer if you may take a photo of him with his crop of newly harvested red peppers, and he will press a bag of 20 of them into your hand, refusing payment.

The prices are particularly tourist-friendly. At Old Erivan Restaurant, one of Yerevan's dozens of eateries that serve quality Armenian fare , my husband and I enjoy a meal of lavash, tomato and cucumber salad, a cheese platter, lamb stew and khorovatz (a meat and vegetable shish kebab) -- washed down with several strong Armenian beers -- for under $15.

Drawing on the past

The rebirth of Armenia after the end of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s has had financial help from the approximately 8 million members of the Armenian Diaspora, 1.4 million of whom live in the United States (1 million in the Los Angeles area alone). Many are descendants of those who perished or fled during the 1915-25 Turkish genocide.

While those who visited shortly after Armenia regained independent statehood found gutted factories and streets stripped of trees for fuel, today they find fountains spraying and flowers blooming along boulevards lined with Russian olive and locust trees. Crowds of stylishly dressed mothers and children walk down Khanjian Street to buy roasted coffee beans, potatoes, onions, ice-cream and fried sweet cakes from street vendors.

But despite Armenia's forays into modernism and self-sufficiency, the rich and tragic past hasn't dimmed. Nor does anyone want it to: Armenia's 4,000-year-old history is its main draw.

Many consider this country the cradle of civilization. The biblical rivers of Tigris and Euphrates originate in the original Armenia, the 16,945-foot-high snow-capped Mount Ararat (now inside Turkey's borders) holds what many believe to be the remnants of Noah's Ark in its crevasses, and there even is reference in the Bible to Ararat, the name of the former Armenian kingdom.

In 301 A.D., Armenia became the first nation to embrace Christianity as a state religion (a dozen years before Rome) -- another factor that shapes this tiny republic's past and present tourist appeal.

A common sight from spring through fall are "monastery tours": busloads of people on weeklong organized sightseeing excursions that shuttle from such Hellenistic pagan temples as the 1st century Garni, to the 3rd century Echmiadzin (ETCH-me-OTT-sin) Cathedral, home to the Supreme Catholicos of the Armenian Apostolic Orthodox faith. At Echmiadzin (think: Vatican but smaller) nonbelievers mingle with pilgrims to view ancient silver chalices, bejeweled crosses and religious relics such as a metal spearhead believed to have pierced the side of Christ.

Travels with Boris

Group tours are plentiful, but if you want to strike out solo, consider hiring a driver who speaks English to ferry you through the countryside, or even to the main sites of the capital city. That's what we did during a one-week visit in late September. We found our driver, Boris (a former Soviet-system mathematician now struggling, like many of the highly educated, to reinvent himself), through the Armenian Tourism Development Agency, which was happy to supply us with a list of recommended English-speaking guides.

We chose several sites, all southeast of Yerevan, for a 2- 1/2 day excursion. They included the famous dungeon of Khor Virap; Noravank monastery; the historically and spiritually significant Tatev Monastery; the Bronze Age celestial observatory, the Zorats Stones; and a natural wonder, Devil's Bridge. Boris was more than willing to pack an overnight bag and accompany us.

Something to keep in mind: Although the map shows Armenia to be a small country, getting from point A to point B can take longer than you anticipate. There are no super highways here. And it takes time to wait out cattle crossings, to dodge potholes and to wind up narrow mountain roads.

On the first morning of our excursion, we emerged, bleary-eyed from the Congress Hotel in Yerevan. Boris was waiting for us, polishing the windshield of his red Niva, a Soviet-made SUV. Within an hour we were watching Mount Ararat turn an orangey pink and by 10:30 a.m. Boris announced what would become a comforting ritual: a coffee break. He pulled the car over to the side of the road and removed from his trunk a small propane stove, a bag of powdered coffee, sugar and three small china cups.

While we took in the views, Boris set out the coffee with sweet cakes (kizgiel, baked early that morning by his wife, Jana) and jam for a makeshift picnic on the roadside rocks. We drank our coffee in the squat position, like Boris, and poured the remaining hot water over our jam-stained, sticky fingers.

Khor Virap is an eerie place with two claims to fame: The church complex was built atop the well where St. Gregory the Illuminator had been imprisoned (depending on who is telling the story) for 12 to 17 years only to emerge and baptize the King and Queen of Armenia and herald the introduction of Armenia as the first Christian nation. Climb down into the narrow pit on a ladder and when you're through imagining Gregory's claustrophobia, climb back out to the blazing sun and get the closest view of Mount Ararat in all of Armenia -- the Turkish border is within walking distance from here.

Noravank, perched on a forested cliff top, high above a river gorge and surrounded by caves, is a 13th century monastery surrounded by dramatic red rock outcroppings. On a bright afternoon, there was nobody else wandering the compound. A hawk circled overhead in the clear sky. We wandered the church grounds and tracde khatchkars ("cross stones" -- unique and elaborate crosses carved on tufa or basalt tablets found primarily in Armenia) with our fingertips.

There was no shortage of natural beauty on this journey. We hikde along the verdant banks of a stream below the monastery and, on the drive out of the gorge, noticed many caverns tucked into the outcroppings. In one of them, an enterprising man has converted the cave into a clean and comfortable restaurant. We weren't the only sightseers who found him: As we ventured into the cozy grotto, we saw him shuttling pitchers of red wine, hard-boiled eggs, barbecued pork and grilled vegetables to a table of raucous Russians, the largest of whom was wearing a drunken grin, a traditional sheepherder's cloak and crooked hat.

About this time we discovered that Boris perceived his job as more than driver. We were his charges, and it was a role he assumed gravely. He was protector, wrinkling his brow in concern as the sheepherder and his friends loudly insisedt that we share a mug of wine, and negotiator, finagling the best price for our hotel room in Sisian later that evening.

Shades of Stonehenge

The next morning, we left our cold and dank hotel shortly after dawn because we were eager to see the Zorats stones -- or Zorakar -- in the day's first light. This circular arrangement of stones, thought to be a celestial observatory, is similar to England's Stonehenge, but older. The Bronze Age phenomenon lies on a barren rolling plain just outside of Sisian, and, like most other natural and manmade wonders in Armenia, is startlingly unprotected and un-commercialized. Only the snowcapped mountains, which loom over the windy field, stand guard. We wandered through the deserted site of lichen-covered stones and peered through holes that the ancient cosmographers might have drilled to better view the heavens.

The road to Tatev is bumpy, but it soon opens to reveal a lushly wooded canyon -- the monastery perched on top like a crown. Indeed, this 9th century complex was viewed as something of a prize to invaders who attacked the site in numerous bloody waves. Other than a caretaker (an old woman who appeared periodically to gather pears that have fallen beneath a courtyard tree) we were once again practically alone, free to explore the faded frescoes in dark rooms; to consider the grisly remnants of a fairly recent chicken sacrifice; to climb the lurchy heights of the fortified walls, and to imagine the 13th century Mongols who, historians say, pushed Christians into the gorge.

Our only disappointment was Devil's Bridge, which we passed on the way to Tatev. The rock formation and hot springs might be beautiful, but the site is trashed by beer bottles, cigarette wrappers and other remnants of partying. It would have been better to stay longer at Tatev sipping a cup of Boris' ubiquitous coffee or just soaking in the sun on one of the precipices before the long drive back to Yerevan.

'New Armenia' in the city

Back in Yerevan -- with its rich history and plethora of significant museums and fun restaurants -- we find no shortage of things to do.

This city of 1.3 million is culturally vibrant and staggeringly old, older than Rome -- by 29 years. To put that in perspective, when construction workers happened to ram into a 700-year-old stone aqueduct, as they did last summer, it hardly registered a blip on their archaeological radar screen.

The National Museum on bustling Republic Square -- formerly called Lenin Square -- is as good of a starting place as any to get a flavor for the country. Also known as the State Museum of Armenian History, it has an English-speaking guide who can show you Uratian cuneiform inscriptions dating back to the 8th century B.C. and 3,000-year-old silver rhytons (drinking vessels), wine vats and horse carriages uncovered in Lake Sevan.

From there, you can branch out to other not-to-be-missed sites (the streets are arranged in a compact, easy-to-navigate pattern, and anything too hard to reach by foot is a cheap cab ride away.) Stroll through the Vernissage, a festive outdoor market that operates each weekend near Republic Square. Here you'll find accordions, old toasters, Russian nesting dolls, obscure car parts, jewelry and strolling musicians. The "closed bazaar," a football stadium-sized indoor market on West Mashtots Avenue, brims with fresh fruits and vegetables displayed like gleaming jewels, and brightly colored spices measured with a one-ounce shot glass.

The Matenadaran rare document museum (at 53 Mesrop Mashtots St.) houses an extraordinary collection of ancient manuscripts, some dating to the 9th century. An English tour guide -- just $2.50 above the regular $4 admission fee -- will heighten the experience. The highlight is a huge 15th century book of Armenian history. It was ripped in half and smuggled out of the country by two peasant women, at great peril, during the 1915 genocide. Both women, and both halves of the book, survived.

This museum pays homage to Mesrop Mashtots, the founder of the Armenian alphabet, unchanged since its inception in 405 A.D. That the alphabet and the Armenian language are still intact after nearly 2,000 years is evidence of a country that has fiercely resisted assimilation.

Echoing Saroyan

Armenians are fond of naming streets after, and quoting, their heroes, from playwrights to poets to war generals. But it is novelist William Saroyan who is most often quoted when Armenians talk about their country coming perilously close to, then back from, the brink of extinction more times than they can count. His most famous quote speaks to the resilience of his people:

"I should like to see any power of the world destroy this race, this small tribe of unimportant people, whose wars have all been fought and lost, whose structures have crumbled, literature is unread, music is unheard and prayers are no more answered. . . . Burn their homes and churches. Then see if they will not laugh, sing and pray again. For when two of them meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a new Armenia."

Saroyan's words have never been more relevant, according to the editor of Armenian International Magazine in Yerevan, which caters to English-speaking Armenians.

"We only had two choices: a downward spiral after Soviet totalitarianism or to blossom," said Laura Gononian. "And we're blossoming. We're undergoing a renaissance in art, music and in building. We're like the phoenix -- we keep getting pounded and we keep coming back."

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If you go

Spring and autumn are the best times to visit, with moderate temperatures and dry weather. The official currency is the Armenian dram, but U.S. dollars are widely used. At press time $1 equals 585 dram. Yerevan has a cash economy, so credit cards aren't helpful here. All prices below are given in U.S. dollars; all locations are in Yerevan.

Getting there

A passport and visa are required. Three-week tourist visas are relatively easy to obtain through the Armenian consulate in Los Angeles (for details, click on "Consular Affairs" at www.armeniaemb.org or call 310-657-6102), or at Zvarnots Airport upon arrival. British Airways is the leading carrier serving Armenia, with flights from London to Yerevan three times a week. Upon arrival at Zvarnots, the 20-minute cab ride to the city center should cost about $15.

What to do

In Yerevan, your first stop should be the Armenian Tourism Development Agency at 3 Nalbandyan St., not far from Republic Square (look for the red pomegranate sign above their doorway). The staff is bend-over-backwards helpful and can provide you with maps, books on Armenian history, hotel information, and phone numbers of reputable guides and drivers. Phone: (011) 374-1-54-23- 03 or 54-47-91.

Sightseeing tour operators: Menua Tours (www.menuatours.com), Sati (www.satiglobal.com) and Princess Maneh ([email protected]) are just three of the many travel agencies that offer sightseeing tours in Armenia. If you plan to hike Mount Aragat (not Ararat, which is in Turkey), note that most tour operators stop leading trips up the peak after Sept. 30.

Where to stay

Congress Hotel, 1 Italia Street (just south of Republic Square). 011-374-1-58-00-95; fax 011-374-1-52-22-24; e-mail [email protected]. A clean and modern four-star facility, it has small rooms with private baths and air conditioning, plus a pool, fitness center, restaurant and bar. Doubles, $100.

Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan, 1 Amirian Street, at Republic Square. 011-374-1-59-90-00; e-mail: [email protected]. Formerly the Hotel Armenia, it's considered by many to be the city's flagship hotel The rooms are on the small side but they are nice, with private baths, air conditioning, satellite television and phones. Facilities include two restaurants, cafe, bar, health club and business services. Doubles, $140. Includes breakfast buffet.

PLACES TO EAT

Dolmama, 10 Pushkin St., 011-374-1-56-8921. Owner Jarair Avanian has created an upscale but cozy continental eatery centrally located in downtown Yerevan. Entrees range from $13 to $18.

Old Erivan, 2 Northern Ave., 011-374-1-54-05-75). This four-story eatery is actually several restaurants under one roof, with dining rooms ranging from elegant European to rooftop al fresco dining with traditional Armenian food and live folk music. The ambitious dйcor and lively entertainment is belied by the moderate prices. Entrees range from $5 to $7.

For more information

The Armenian embassy Web site www.armeniaemb.org has sightseeing tips and lodging information under its "Discover Armenia" link. Other helpful Web sites include www.armeniadiaspora.com and www.armeniainfo.am.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...TRGD8991V41.TMP

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ooxxxaaayyyyyyyyy......YeReVaNssssssssss.........

hesa kgam Yerevan jan.....u karots karrnem...tekuz lini mi amis...bayc kgam noric u noric....mi erku taruc kgam ko mot ksovorem Yerevans......hesa stegh avartem....ko mot kgam aspiranturayis hamar....u kvayelenk irar het.........

ehhhhh Yerevan jan.........mi or.....mi or kga vor irar het el esenc bazhanvac chenk lini, yes u im bolor Hayrenakicnere........

Hayer jan...urtegh vor aprek...USA, Russastan, Angliya, Fransya, ur vor lini.....arach gnacek et yerkrnerum....bayc misht votk el drek mer yerkri mech.....hima chem uzum noric hriyanerin berem orinak....bayc shat chem asi...yes en hayeric chem vor misht boghokum em hriyaneric....bayc Hayer jan...de xasyat unenk hriyanerin knarkelu hamar, bayc hayer jan...inch vor hriyanere arel en halal a iranc.....tes amen Astoco yerkir vor mtel en....iranc systeme sovorel en....heto dimel en barcr astichani gordzeri mech...karavakan, heto mediayi mech, zhurnalist, terter...amen inchi mech mtel en....vor amen koghmic et yerkire ghekavaren mi tesaketic.....bolore iharke shat hangist dzevov....u misht el votk unen israeli mech....u oknum en et yerkrin amen dzevov....

yesim Hayer jan....menk el karank, yes huys unem dzer bolori vra....u gitem mer azgin chek poshmani...karevore vor dzer dasert hetevek....arach gnacek dzer aprac yerkrnerum....yev kick kich irar dzerk tank yev shtkenk mer sireli [email protected] [email protected]@, ot@, aghchikner@, utelike....ba halal chi mer azgin? lacels galis a vor endeghi Hayere uzum em durs gan...amen or nuyn patmutyunn a....axr yes iranc chem kara meghadrem....systemi mexkn a. Apagan menk enk hayer jan....karank poxenk....depi [email protected] pes yerkir kunenank....huysov em....karevore vor bolort depi lav mtacek...kante depi vat....misht el pozitiv mtacek.....vor aytpes chmtacek iharke amen inch chi hajoghvi...vorovhetev kez asel es che...chi hajoghvi.....bayc shat el lav kara hajoghvi.......

eh Hayer jan....xntrum em grek...dzer karciknere haytnek.....mi or uzum em bolorit het handipem hraparakum....u yerevani gishernerum ketank amen tegh mer kaghaki mech...kkaylenk....kxndank....kvayelenk....kyerkenk....u kuraxanank irar het..... :flag:

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Hymp3King, lav ban er es asum, bayts menk shat pokr masn enk Yerevani, U minchev karavarutyun@ chpoxvi u Mi normal mart chnsti voch me ban el chi poxvi. Nuyn@ pti sharunakvi, ov hnaravorutyun uni kpaxni U ov el Pox uni U ykamut Kvayeli, Migin xavi martkanc hamar voch mi lav ban chi spasvum motaka 5 Tarum. Vor sents eta....

Mi ban hartsnem ete Gaxtnik chi, kani tari a Yerevanum ches U kani Tarekan es?

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Hymp3King, lav ban er es asum, bayts menk shat pokr masn enk Yerevani, U minchev karavarutyun@ chpoxvi u Mi normal mart chnsti voch me ban el chi poxvi. Nuyn@ pti sharunakvi, ov hnaravorutyun uni kpaxni U ov el Pox uni U ykamut Kvayeli, Migin xavi martkanc hamar voch mi lav ban chi spasvum motaka 5 Tarum. Vor sents eta....

Mi ban hartsnem ete Gaxtnik chi, kani tari a Yerevanum ches U kani Tarekan es?

Kani tari a Yerevan chem: (vor chishte uzum es imanas, cavok srti stegh amerika em cnvel...new jersey nahangum :down: ) bayc 2003 tvin 7 orov em gnacel Hayastan.....ha ha...gitenk kich a....anter u kes dprocs er vor etenc eshutyun arecin....ashxari kes@ gnas...7 orov? eh......

Kari tarekan em: 19 tarekan

Axpers...gitenk karavarutyunn a vor mer yerkrin esenc vat a nayum, yes dem chem, voch mi depkum....axr harc@ en a gali YERP PITI POXVI....yev VONC piti poxvi....vor menk hayers esenc spasenk spasenk vor miban otic ga u mer yerkrin prki.....de yerazi mech ek aprum ay cavt tanem. Bayc hima bolor hayers...en hayere (im serund@) stegh hamalsaran en etum, usanum en...huysov em nuyn@ katarvum a Russastanum yev Yevropayum.....bayc togh et mer uzh@ vor piti unenank en yerkrnerum...vortegh vor uzum a lini....ari chmorranank vor mer hayrenik@ misht Hayastann a....yev gone mi kerp porcenk verakarucel mer yerkire vor irok....kuklayi pes payli :up: yev et orn el kga....bayc misht mer npatanknere piti pahenk....yev baci pahele...bayc mer xoski ter linenk. Hima nayi, mer azge....spyurkum....halvum a.....yes chgitem du ur es aprum HayMonster...bayc yes los angeles em aprum amerikayum, isk steghi cnvac hayere (ovker amerika en cnvel) iranc mshakuyte, kronke, azgutyun@, yev na manavant LEZUN morranum en. Hima da bnakan ban a, da voch mi harc, bayc vor senc sharnakvi...isk avel hayer lken...u Hayastanic durs ga ....ba mer azgi apagan inch piti lini??? vochnchutyun.....hima gitem yes nra extreme tesaketn em tali kez, bayc hima mer azg@ spyurkum halvum a....da past a. Shat parz orinak berem....asenk en Hayastancinere vor Hayastanic artagaxtecin yevropa, russastan, amerika...ur vor uzum a lini....heto erexa unecan...de bnakan a vor et tghu kam aghchiki erexan enkan lav hayeren chi piti xosa inchkan cnoghnere...ayo? Isk vor en erexan het chveradarna Hayastan....u spyurkum noric apri....apagayum ira erexekn el hayeren chi piti imanan inchkan lav vor ira cnoghnere giti...ayo? yev ayspes process@ piti sharnakvi....u hay@ vortegh piti hasni spyurkum? el inch hay? :( nra hamar, lav kam vat mer yerkir@ lini hima...hima gitem bolors stegh yeritasart enk...bayc apagayum....misht votk/kap unecek mer yerkri verakarucman mech....vor en or@ ga vor mer yerkirin ases...gites inch...yes inch em anum stegh spyurkum...russastanum? amerikayum? yevropayum? hena im Hayastan@ ka....gordz@ ka, nranc tntesutyune shat lav a, martkayin iravunknere kan, technologian ka, amen inch uni Hayastan@ yevropayi/russastani/amerikayi pes hamemat....BACI MEZ!!!! <==

vopshem Hayer jan....lav mnacek....vortegh vor linek....karot@ misht unecek...yev en npatakov aprek vor mi or shutov apagayum mer Hayrenik@ kdzvi...u menk bolors poghocum irar ktesnenk....kievyan kamurjov kancenk, kno nairiyum khavakvenk....ararat patvalum kchashenk....ehhh Hayer jan....misht aytpes pozitiv mtacek....yev Astvac ta mer yerkiri lusavor apagan el ktenank apaga serundi mech.....u tenank......

P.S. Noyember 25-in....(amerikayum: thanksgiving day), los angeles kaghakum, Hayastani Hamahaykakan Himnadram@ piti nerkayacni Armenia Telethon 2004. Amen yerkrum cuyc piti ta ays telethon@ vor dram havaken gharabaghi champaneri hamar...vor karan Hayere azat u hangist gan u gnan arcax => yerevan, yev yerevanic => arcax....baci et dram@ etum a zanazan projektnerin....entanrapes veranorokman npatakov. Yes andzamp piti masnagcem es telethonin....so bolorit em asum nayek....ov giti...karogha indz tesnek cragri mech loooool....

Hajogh Hayer jan....lav mnacek :flag:

Edited by HYEMP3KING
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Yeghpayr, chisht es asum!

Liovin hamadzayn em :respect:

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Hyemp3king jan lriv hamatsayn em ko het, es el em amerika aprum, u tenum em te inch a stex katarvum, vonts en martik moranum iranc ov linel@, hla et el kich chi , hay@ hayin ela spanum, chem asum Yerevanum tenc baner chi linum, bayts otar erkrum mi bur azgen u irar en xpum ankap patcharnerov, Du Los es lav gites etkan@...

Bayts vor chisht@ asenk, ete yerevanum Gorts lini, vor karenas @ntanikt pahes, Imanas Erexet apaga Uni andex, xi chenk ete? Es antsamb ketam avellava hayeri meg aprem kants te severi u mexikneri, Bayts hla dra vaxt@ chi ekel, U huys unem vor mi or kga u erevan@ enkan lav klni vor martik het ketan....

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Hyemp3king jan lriv hamatsayn em ko het,  es el em amerika aprum, u tenum em te inch a stex katarvum, vonts en martik moranum iranc ov linel@, hla et el kich chi , hay@ hayin ela spanum, chem asum Yerevanum tenc baner chi linum, bayts otar erkrum mi bur azgen u irar en xpum ankap patcharnerov, Du Los es lav gites etkan@...

Bayts vor chisht@ asenk, ete yerevanum Gorts lini, vor karenas @ntanikt pahes, Imanas Erexet apaga Uni andex, xi chenk ete? Es antsamb ketam avellava hayeri meg aprem kants te severi u mexikneri, Bayts hla dra vaxt@ chi ekel, U huys unem vor mi or kga u erevan@  enkan lav klni vor martik het ketan....

aper bayc chgitem het ketan te che hayers....orinak yes endegh chem cnvel chem aprel.....bayc vor Hayastane en vichaki lini vor hangist karam zgam...hangist en tesaketov vor tntesutyune lav a...martkayin iravunknere lav a....kakras yevroapakan yerkrneri nman eli....aytpes asac....yes el ketam inchu che....axr vaxum em en hayere vor 80akan tvakannerin ekan...kam tekuz 90akan tvakanerin.....el chen el uzena Hayastani erese tenan kani vor arten stegh inchpes asac..."institutionalized" en....aysinkn sovor en es amerikyan kyankov......na manavant los angelesum...vortegh amena hordahos aprelakerpn en aprum (most affluent)....chgitem axpers....eh....Hayi baxt@ eli.....mer azge inch baxt a unecel patmutyan mech....? ===> VOCHINCH CHI EL UNECEL....ayl vat baneric vat baner.....ehhhh....bayc mnacel enk Hye......bayc Hayastane hima 2 million a....shat kich a.....es inch a eghel bnakcucyunin? eh aper chgitem.....yes en gitem vor mi or uzum em Ararat sar@ barcranam.....mi sunkayi mech mer Haykakan drosh@ dnem vor anter kurdere u turkere chtenan.....u mi hat mecccccccccccc xoshor pole (chgitem vonc asem hayeren) el ktanem hets...kam ughatiric kichanen lol....u et droshe khanem ararati gagati vra...u kdnem sari mech...yev droshe aytpes kereva....amboghj yerevan@ ktena vor et sar@ MERN A :-D....ba....bayc lurj...shat kuzenam ararat@ barcranam...vor mek@ uzum a hets ga dzen hanek :-D lol

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aper bayc chgitem het ketan te che hayers....orinak yes endegh chem cnvel chem aprel.....bayc vor Hayastane en vichaki lini vor hangist karam zgam...hangist en tesaketov vor tntesutyune lav a...martkayin iravunknere lav a....kakras yevroapakan yerkrneri nman eli....aytpes asac....yes el ketam inchu che....axr vaxum em en hayere vor 80akan tvakannerin ekan...kam tekuz 90akan tvakanerin.....el chen el uzena Hayastani erese tenan kani vor arten stegh inchpes asac..."institutionalized" en....aysinkn sovor en es amerikyan kyankov......na manavant los angelesum...vortegh amena hordahos aprelakerpn en aprum (most affluent)....chgitem axpers....eh....Hayi baxt@ eli.....mer azge inch baxt a unecel patmutyan mech....? ===> VOCHINCH CHI EL UNECEL....ayl vat baneric vat baner.....ehhhh....bayc mnacel enk Hye......bayc Hayastane hima 2 million a....shat kich a.....es inch a eghel bnakcucyunin? eh aper chgitem.....yes en gitem vor mi or uzum em Ararat sar@ barcranam.....mi sunkayi mech mer Haykakan drosh@ dnem vor anter kurdere u turkere chtenan.....u mi hat mecccccccccccc xoshor pole (chgitem vonc asem hayeren) el ktanem hets...kam ughatiric kichanen lol....u et droshe khanem ararati gagati vra...u kdnem sari mech...yev droshe aytpes kereva....amboghj yerevan@ ktena vor et sar@ MERN A :-D....ba....bayc lurj...shat kuzenam ararat@ barcranam...vor mek@ uzum a hets ga dzen hanek :-D lol

ARARAT barcranale exela erazanqnerics meke,u ANI im anune krox erkir gnale,ANI heshte gnal TURISTAKANOV,bayc ARARAT ETKANEL CHE. bayc ANI chi stacvel..dra hamar v or gnam erevan hesa noric,gnaluem ANI hastat:)isk ARARAT eh ASTVAC jan,,tox nenc stacvi,vor menq cherazenk ararat tesnel,,ararat ira votov dzerov ga mer erkir,,,mere lin,,menk ktesnenq,uzac chuzac mere klini....:)))))))) :victory: :girlkiss:

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Zhoghovurt jan, kani vor Hayastani masin enk xosum es ejum...uzum em bolorit asel vor noyember 25in A.M.N.-um..los angeles kaghakum piti teghi unena Hayastani Hamahaykakan Himnadram (Armenia Fund) vor aystegh piti telethon unenank, vor dram havakenk Hayastanin ugharkenk.....noyember 25in...hishek [email protected] tegh piti cuyc tan....bayc vor Russastan ek aprum chgitem endegh cuyc kta te che...bayc en gitem vor avstralia, anglia, germanya, yev ayl yerkrnerum piti yeteri.....ancyal erku tarin masnagcel em....u endegh herraxosi operator em eghel....yev yerpvor Hayi dzen@ lsum es herrvic...vortegh vor lini....enkan lav es zgum....misht el harazat a darrnum kez...vortegh vor linenk....mer Hayutyun@ mez kapum a :-D orinak erku tari arach...meke zangec tennessee nahangic amerikayum.....enkan el zarmaca....asum ei tennessee??? endegh inch Hay ka vor? loloool......bayc ayo....kank....amen tegh....cvrvac azg enk....nra hamar piti porcenk mer Hayastan@ voti kangnacnenk vor senc chhalvenk etank urish azgeri nman. Hena nayek Assorinerin.....shat mec azg en eghel....patmutyun en unecel...u darerum misht kain...bayc hima inch vichaki en? sagh sagh mi erku million Assoriner klinen ashxarhum....iranc yerkir@ chunen...mi hat Assoriastan chka.....u iranc azgn el a cvrvac.....u et el keta....iranc hamar aveli dzhvar a....hima menk mi 6-7 million enk ashxarum....et 6-7 millionic inkan@ ira Hayutyun@ pahel en.....et mnac...u et a mer himk@ vor sksenk mer Hayastan@ verakangnacnenk.......eh.......

Mi morracek bayc sireli Hayer...noyember 25in...amboghj or@ piti yeteri Hayastani Hamahaykakan Himnadram [email protected] piti masnagcem...idep porcek gtnek indz dzer ekranneri mech :-D loool...ancyal tari ov vor Russastan er aprum u dram nvirec....iranc anunnere tarkmanum ei angleren vor karaink dneink TVi vra... :-D

de lav Hayer jan...etam mikich gordz anem....duk grek stegh arxayin u mi vaxecek...stegh otar chka :-) lool....

lav mnak....Hay mnak.....

- Gokor

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chisht chi eh....chisht chi....BOLOR HAYER@ STEGH RUSSEREN EN GRUM YES SHAT EM NEGHVUM....BA YES VONC KARAM MASNAGCEM DZER XOSAKCUTYAN MECH VOR CHEM HASKANUM DZEZ???????? BA ETI CHISHT A? TNASHEN....HAYEREN GREK ELI HASKANANK IRAR......VONCVOR UZAC CHUZAC PITI MARTIK RUSSEREN SOVOREN VOR MASNAGCEN FORUMI MECH....KANI VOR ENTAMENE RUSSEREN EN XOSUM.....EH HAYER JAN.....BA EN HAYER@ VOR RUSSASTAN CHEN APREL U RUSEREN CHGITEN....VOR@ SHAT SHAT SHAT KA...BA IRANK? ETENC MI YAN SHPRTEK U MORRACEK? BA YERPEK MTACEL EK VOR IRANK EL MART EN....IRANK EL EN UZUM DZER HET SHPVEM INCHPES YES....BAYC CHI STACVUM KANI VOR PORCUM ENK U PORCUM ENK....BAYC NORIC NMUSHI HAMAR MIBAN CHKA ES ARACHI EJI VRA VOR HAYEREN A GRVAC...BACI EN KANI TAREKAN ES [email protected] LAV ELI HAYER JAN....BOLORT SHAT EL LAV KARAK HAYEREN XOSAK......DZER BOLOR CNOGHNERE HAYASTAN EN CNVEL....INCHPES [email protected] VOR DUK RUSSASTAN EK CNVEL.....HUYSOV EM HLE HAYEREN KIMANAK.....DE XOSANK ELI !

* YEV OV VOR KAROT A HAYKAKAN YERKERIN....YEV UZUM EN DZRI CDner YEV VIDEONER STEGH AYCELEK: http://hometown.aol.de/_ht_a/Dawid2oo4/new/porc/hub/ARM.htm

ARAZHM......HAYER DE LAV ELI.....HAYEREN XOSACEK MENK EL HASKANANK ELI...HAM@ ARTEN HANECIK....SHAT EM NEGHVUM

Edited by HYEMP3KING
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